The Solo Adventures Of Laura Elizabeth Fleming
I guess in terms of redefining bravery, most people would not list going on a holiday alone but for me it was actually a really big deal. It was more than the sum of its parts. Me packing half my worldly belongings into car and driving into the unknown (okay relatively unknown given that I was going to Wicklow and not Timbuktu). For me it was about reclaiming parts of myself that I felt had been lost down through the years. I think on some level I felt it was something I would manage badly. Like I would stick out as a lone woman traveler and my own social ineptitude would somehow render me incapable of travelling solo.
If life has taught me nothing else it is that I am capable of so much more than I would have previously given myself credit for. Also I have come to accept over time that I actively enjoy my own company and its okay to embrace that provided I don't find myself moving into a cabin up a hill with a recently purchased pet goat (I am just not a cat person). With all this in mind I spontaneously booked a mini break in Glendalough based on nothing more than a new found desire to explore hiking and the fact that at this point I'd signed up to a night time hike in the area. Now I am not exactly known for my spontaneity. In fact if pushed I would confess I have a less than delightful propensity to plan the shit out of everything and often talk myself out of doing things so this was definitely out of character.
Due to the last minute nature of this holiday and the budget I had to hand, I did not book myself into a fancy hotel but instead sourced myself a private room in a hostel and figured I wasn't there for room service or spa treatments anyway, somewhere clean to sleep and shower would do me just fine. When Monday morning rolled round, I felt just that pre holiday excitement and no nerves at all. Because I am clearly a nutcase, I went to the gym to get my Monday stared off right before returning home to freshen up and eat and before lunch I was on the road on my way to Wicklow, feeling like I knew the roads well just because I had been there just a few days ago. I arrived at the hostel just after two and was met with a warm welcome by the staff on the desk and I advised them not to be alarmed as I proceeded to drag what looked like the contents of my house into the hostel, We all had a bit a bit of a chuckle at my dubious packing skills.
My room was spacious, clean and came with an ensuite and that was all I needed to know. Within minutes of checking in I was in hiking gear and ready get out exploring. I had decided to do the Spinc walk again as this was the route we had walked in the dark but had been advised there better views and an easier climb if you started from the other side but I have an awful sense of direction so once I found myself at the base of the waterfall and realised I was clearly not doing the walk backwards, I just embraced it. Mind you as I panted my way up the 600 steps I questioned my sanity and the likelihood of my calves surviving given how the gym that morning had left me stumbling to my car like a baby deer taking its first steps. Once I reached the top and saw the views I was breathless in more ways than one. It was an incredible experience doing my first proper solo hike and I felt so good after completing it without falling off the mountain (that boardwalk does veer dangerously close to the edge in parts) or getting lost. I suppose with all the arrows and most of it being a wooden path, it would have been hard to do but I'm sure I'd have been just the woman to manage it. Once getting back to my room and changing clothes, I went out in search of dinner. I ended up in the only restaurant in the village eating a rather questionable veggie burger (a bit too much beetroot) before returning to the hostel to sit by the fire using the wifi to put my favourite pictures from the day onto instagram and then heading to bed to read with my head torch (clearly it was made for such purposes) and falling asleep.
Day two of my holiday and I had big big plans. For a fussy eater like myself, having access to a kitchen to make my own breakfast was ideal. Despite the hostel being the quietest place I'd ever stayed, I somehow woke at stupid o clock and spent two hours awake before falling back asleep so after breakfast I lay on my bed and finished my book before readying myself to step into my role of brave lady adventurer. My plan for day two was simple, I was going to drive to Bray and walk along the cliffs to Greystones where I would have lunch in The Happy Pear and walk back. I arrived in Bray only to find the cliff walk closed for safety reasons so I drove to Greystones and tried to work out how I might salvage the rest of the day. I found The Happy Pear and had one of their famous buddha bowls , a vegan bounty bar and some seriously good coffee before returning to my car and plotting my next adventure. On the drive there I had seen signs for Powerscourt Waterfall so off I headed. I arrived an hour before it closed (it was the first time I seen a waterfall with opening times) and then paid 6 euros for the privilege of looking at it which was a bit rich if you ask me. I had a little wander and took as many photos of the waterfall as I could before leaving and deciding I would drive through the Sally Gap on my way home. I followed the signs which brought me on a rather wild and beautiful scenic drive right past Lough Tay, In fact I was very busy admiring what I thought was the Sally Gap when I saw signs telling me I still a km away from it so I guess I was just looking another rather beautiful bit of Wicklow scenery. I found myself driving through the mountains just as the sun was setting which made for rather slow driving because I pulled in at every given opportunity to take another damn sunset photo. As I drove closer to the valley (I'm not entirely sure what part of the drive was classed as the Sally Gap, just the valley or possibly the beautiful windy road that led to it) I noticed that what I had assumed was fog was in fact fire. The mountain was on fire and because I had never done the drive before, I was not aware the road I was on went right now down into the very smokey part. so I kept driving, closer to the flames, right past the fire brigade who waved me on and right through to the other side thankfully with my car not on fire. I stopped for food on my way home and then back to the fire side to share my best shots in silence. The others at the hostel showed no real desire to engage with me and I was glad to be spared from the tediousness of small talk, Soon I was tucked up in bed watching a tv show and dreaming of another days adventures.
Day 3 was my last day in Wicklow. By 10am, I had showered, eaten, packed a lunch and checked out ready for my farewell hike. It was recommended I try the Derrybawn woodland trail so I set off walking and found it to be beautiful but wondered had I spoiled myself by starting with the Spinc walk because obviously the views weren't nearly as impressive. Two hours later I found myself at the Upper lake and I was not ready to go home. So I decided, with questionable sanity to walk the Spinc walk starting at the lake (which is backwards) one more time and to walk into the views. I was less than an hour into the walk when my feet had begun to hurt but by then I had already committed to it. The weather was glorious again, cold but dry and sunny so I continued on, making my way up the side of the mountain. I stopped just before the boardwalk to picnic with a beautiful view of the lake before mustering the energy to continue on. The views were just as beautiful as they had been the last day except with an added element of mild terror as I looked face on into the steep drop of the valley. By the time I was easing myself down those 600 steps, I felt tired and a little sore but great from all the walking. The hikes were an escape from all my own thoughts and while my feet did not fare well, my spirit had been restored.
After that epic walk I was happy to wave goodbye to Wicklow for now and ease myself into my car for the drive home. I drove the whole way home with a cramp in one butt cheek but otherwise feeling refreshed and empowered in the knowledge that I might have more holidays like this, my hiking boots and far too many books. One woman on a solo adventure.
If life has taught me nothing else it is that I am capable of so much more than I would have previously given myself credit for. Also I have come to accept over time that I actively enjoy my own company and its okay to embrace that provided I don't find myself moving into a cabin up a hill with a recently purchased pet goat (I am just not a cat person). With all this in mind I spontaneously booked a mini break in Glendalough based on nothing more than a new found desire to explore hiking and the fact that at this point I'd signed up to a night time hike in the area. Now I am not exactly known for my spontaneity. In fact if pushed I would confess I have a less than delightful propensity to plan the shit out of everything and often talk myself out of doing things so this was definitely out of character.
Due to the last minute nature of this holiday and the budget I had to hand, I did not book myself into a fancy hotel but instead sourced myself a private room in a hostel and figured I wasn't there for room service or spa treatments anyway, somewhere clean to sleep and shower would do me just fine. When Monday morning rolled round, I felt just that pre holiday excitement and no nerves at all. Because I am clearly a nutcase, I went to the gym to get my Monday stared off right before returning home to freshen up and eat and before lunch I was on the road on my way to Wicklow, feeling like I knew the roads well just because I had been there just a few days ago. I arrived at the hostel just after two and was met with a warm welcome by the staff on the desk and I advised them not to be alarmed as I proceeded to drag what looked like the contents of my house into the hostel, We all had a bit a bit of a chuckle at my dubious packing skills.
My room was spacious, clean and came with an ensuite and that was all I needed to know. Within minutes of checking in I was in hiking gear and ready get out exploring. I had decided to do the Spinc walk again as this was the route we had walked in the dark but had been advised there better views and an easier climb if you started from the other side but I have an awful sense of direction so once I found myself at the base of the waterfall and realised I was clearly not doing the walk backwards, I just embraced it. Mind you as I panted my way up the 600 steps I questioned my sanity and the likelihood of my calves surviving given how the gym that morning had left me stumbling to my car like a baby deer taking its first steps. Once I reached the top and saw the views I was breathless in more ways than one. It was an incredible experience doing my first proper solo hike and I felt so good after completing it without falling off the mountain (that boardwalk does veer dangerously close to the edge in parts) or getting lost. I suppose with all the arrows and most of it being a wooden path, it would have been hard to do but I'm sure I'd have been just the woman to manage it. Once getting back to my room and changing clothes, I went out in search of dinner. I ended up in the only restaurant in the village eating a rather questionable veggie burger (a bit too much beetroot) before returning to the hostel to sit by the fire using the wifi to put my favourite pictures from the day onto instagram and then heading to bed to read with my head torch (clearly it was made for such purposes) and falling asleep.
Day two of my holiday and I had big big plans. For a fussy eater like myself, having access to a kitchen to make my own breakfast was ideal. Despite the hostel being the quietest place I'd ever stayed, I somehow woke at stupid o clock and spent two hours awake before falling back asleep so after breakfast I lay on my bed and finished my book before readying myself to step into my role of brave lady adventurer. My plan for day two was simple, I was going to drive to Bray and walk along the cliffs to Greystones where I would have lunch in The Happy Pear and walk back. I arrived in Bray only to find the cliff walk closed for safety reasons so I drove to Greystones and tried to work out how I might salvage the rest of the day. I found The Happy Pear and had one of their famous buddha bowls , a vegan bounty bar and some seriously good coffee before returning to my car and plotting my next adventure. On the drive there I had seen signs for Powerscourt Waterfall so off I headed. I arrived an hour before it closed (it was the first time I seen a waterfall with opening times) and then paid 6 euros for the privilege of looking at it which was a bit rich if you ask me. I had a little wander and took as many photos of the waterfall as I could before leaving and deciding I would drive through the Sally Gap on my way home. I followed the signs which brought me on a rather wild and beautiful scenic drive right past Lough Tay, In fact I was very busy admiring what I thought was the Sally Gap when I saw signs telling me I still a km away from it so I guess I was just looking another rather beautiful bit of Wicklow scenery. I found myself driving through the mountains just as the sun was setting which made for rather slow driving because I pulled in at every given opportunity to take another damn sunset photo. As I drove closer to the valley (I'm not entirely sure what part of the drive was classed as the Sally Gap, just the valley or possibly the beautiful windy road that led to it) I noticed that what I had assumed was fog was in fact fire. The mountain was on fire and because I had never done the drive before, I was not aware the road I was on went right now down into the very smokey part. so I kept driving, closer to the flames, right past the fire brigade who waved me on and right through to the other side thankfully with my car not on fire. I stopped for food on my way home and then back to the fire side to share my best shots in silence. The others at the hostel showed no real desire to engage with me and I was glad to be spared from the tediousness of small talk, Soon I was tucked up in bed watching a tv show and dreaming of another days adventures.
Day 3 was my last day in Wicklow. By 10am, I had showered, eaten, packed a lunch and checked out ready for my farewell hike. It was recommended I try the Derrybawn woodland trail so I set off walking and found it to be beautiful but wondered had I spoiled myself by starting with the Spinc walk because obviously the views weren't nearly as impressive. Two hours later I found myself at the Upper lake and I was not ready to go home. So I decided, with questionable sanity to walk the Spinc walk starting at the lake (which is backwards) one more time and to walk into the views. I was less than an hour into the walk when my feet had begun to hurt but by then I had already committed to it. The weather was glorious again, cold but dry and sunny so I continued on, making my way up the side of the mountain. I stopped just before the boardwalk to picnic with a beautiful view of the lake before mustering the energy to continue on. The views were just as beautiful as they had been the last day except with an added element of mild terror as I looked face on into the steep drop of the valley. By the time I was easing myself down those 600 steps, I felt tired and a little sore but great from all the walking. The hikes were an escape from all my own thoughts and while my feet did not fare well, my spirit had been restored.
After that epic walk I was happy to wave goodbye to Wicklow for now and ease myself into my car for the drive home. I drove the whole way home with a cramp in one butt cheek but otherwise feeling refreshed and empowered in the knowledge that I might have more holidays like this, my hiking boots and far too many books. One woman on a solo adventure.
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